As
we near the end of our time in Ireland, I find myself thinking back over the highlights
of the trip. The coldest that I have ever
been (at a Gaelic football game), the best upper body workout that I’ve ever
had (surfing in a bodysuit), the first Guinness I ever drank…the list keeps
growing. And as of last Tuesday, I can
gladly (if slowly) add the newest of the Irish life experiences. The hardest I have ever worked to go just
under one, tiny little mile. It took
three and a half hours and my knees may never be the same.
Croagh
Patrick is known as Ireland’s Holy Mountain.
It rises from the countryside like a rugged pyramid, shadowing a bay of
the Atlantic Ocean and providing a landmark for any wandering around the
Westport/Louisburgh area. The peak rises
762 meters above sea level and can easily be seen from Louisburgh on a clear
day. Since first arriving here, I have
used the mountain as a beacon—especially when returning from one of our long
trips from across Ireland. When I see
Croagh Patrick, I know that I am almost home.
I have looked upon it with a mixture of respect and intimidation,
because I have also known that eventually I was going to climb it. Now that I am comfortably massaging my weary
feet in front of our empty fireplace (I simply don’t have the energy to build
one right now), I can only think back to when I stood at the very top of the
mountain and shake my head. This was the
experience of a lifetime.
Hikers
begin the climb from a small car park eight kilometers outside of
Westport. Beginning the climb is
intimidating to say the least. The trail
snakes up the side of a shorter rise next to Croagh Patrick, the mountain
itself being too steep at this point for hikers to safely climb it. The path is made from sharp, loose rocks that
roll and shift underneath the unwary hiker’s boots. By the time we reached the crest of the first
rise, I could feel my calf and thigh muscles burning and I was more than happy
to take a short break. The view, even
from this midway point, was breathtaking.
The island riddled bay glistened to one side of the mountain while the
other side harbored rolling mountains, dark patches of pine forest and (of
course) small, rock lined pastures filled with grazing sheep. It was when I turned to look at Croagh
Patrick, however, that I felt my heart sink.
The mountain looked steeper and more daunting than ever.
At
this point, we walked along the narrow crest of the shorter mountain until we
reached the side of Croagh Patrick. Many
of the people in front of us were nearly crawling as they scrambled up the
steep side, loose rocks rolling beneath the hikers. As we started to climb, I could feel the
backs of my hiking boots protesting against my heels and I knew that it would
be hell to pay once I made it to the top.
One of the most difficult parts of the climb was the fact that for every
step I took, I lost half a step when the rocks I stepped on shifted down the
mountainside. I honestly don’t know how
the mountain hasn’t completely shifted into the sea after all these years of
traveling hikers and pilgrims.
After
an hour of this, I didn’t have to worry about my feet anymore: I could no longer
feel them. I did however feel (and
regret) every single croissant and doughnut that I’ve ingested during this
three month period (and it’s no modest amount, because quite frankly the
pastries here are amazing). The last leg
of the climb is the steepest and when my two friends and I heaved ourselves
onto the mountain’s peak, we were all out of breath and wobbling about on very
shaky legs. However, the view quickly
trumped my need to collapse.
It
was a mildly hazy day, but even so I could see Louisburgh in the distance,
along with Westport, the Atlantic and, of course, the surrounding
mountains. The clouds cast startlingly
beautiful designs across the sun lit bay, dancing amongst the islands like an
ever changing puzzle. The wind was
incredible and while I had been getting very warm while hiking, I was quickly
chilled as I soaked in the view. Soon we
were beginning the slow climb back down and while I was certainly glad to no
longer be going up, I still was amazed by the strain this descent made for my
already shaky knees (not to mention that I spent much of the downward progress
on my rear, since the rolling rocks were still…well, rolling).
It
has been two days since we made the climb and I can still feel the aftermath on
my very red heels and extraordinarily stiff shoulders. Climbing Croagh Patrick reminded me of three
very important things. First, the world
is a magnificent, beautiful place.
Second, the greatest things in life are often the hardest to
achieve. And finally…
I am laying off the doughnuts.
~K