Chances are that if you ask an Irishman about a
place you need to see before leaving Ireland, he will direct you toward the
Cliffs of Moher. One of Ireland’s top
tourist sights, it is easy to see why the movies and people are fascinated by
this spectacular landmark. In fact, if
you are a fan of Harry Potter or The Princess Bride, you may already know this
place. The Cliffs of Moher have long
commanded humanity’s awe and respect, their sheer, 200 meter drop into the
Atlantic Ocean awakening a new sense of respect within the human heart.
Nestled in a part of Ireland known as the Burren,
the Cliffs are not only aesthetically enthralling: they are a geological
wonder. Thousands of years of compacted
layers of silt, mud and sand have eroded away to give the Cliffs their uniquely
jagged appearance, soil breaking down under the will of ancient rivers and, of
course, the fury of the Atlantic. Time
created these natural wonders and, as with most things, it is time that will
also take them away. Every year the
Cliffs lose more of their lower levels of soil to the ocean, the edge
eventually collapsing. At the base of
the Cliffs, square pillars of black stone can be plainly seen, the natural
formations molded by the power of salt water and wind.
Recent development near the Cliffs has brought many
modern conveniences for the visitors.
There is a museum dedicated to the history and geology of the Cliffs as
well as a gift shop, restaurant and occasionally live music. While I visited, a man sat on the stone
pathway and played traditional tunes on an Irish flute, the haunting and lively
melodies drifting with the wind that never truly settles. Visitors can walk for miles along the edge
where railings and stairs have been placed for the protection and convenience
of the Cliffs’ swarm of sightseers.
The Cliffs of Moher also hold interest for
birdwatchers. With over 20,000 species
of breeding seabirds nesting in the area, including the Puffin, Chough, Fulmar,
Guillemot and Razorbill, the Cliffs of Moher are in the Special Protection
Area. Visitors are required to remain on
the stone pathways that line the cliff’s face; anyone who deems it necessary to
climb over the wall and challenge the Cliffs’ edge will be promptly asked to
vacate the premises. Truly, I didn’t
have much interest in venturing close to the edge anyway—as the gale force
winds would often give abrupt bursts that sent the visitors sprawling.
Of course, common sense is not abundant in all of
mankind. Many people deemed it necessary
to tempt fate and challenge the wind, climbing over the wall and flitting about
the cliff’s continuously collapsing edge.
Thanks, but no thanks. Before
World War II, however, going over the edge was a popular way to both catch food
and pass the time, fourteen or so people lowering one man down the cliff’s face
on a long rope. The climber would, if
hunting, take along a separate rope with a noose at one end, slipping the loop
over an unsuspecting nesting bird’s head and snaring supper. He would then ring its neck, throw it in a basket,
and continue down the drop. Needless to
say, this was not the safest of professions.
All in all, I can’t but agree with the locals: if
you are travelling in Ireland, you shouldn’t leave before paying a visit to the
Cliffs. They attract thousands of
visitors year round from all corners of the world. Even on the rainy, February day that we
decided to visit I could hear French, German, English and Italian languages all
around me. My only suggestions are to
dress warmly, try to find a day that it isn’t raining, and to be sure to not
forget your camera. The Cliffs are sure
to awaken a hidden sense of wonder.
~K
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